2011 Tax Credit Facts: Windows, Exterior Doors & Skylights

Hello Friends!

I just received the information below from the Window & Door Manufacturers Association. 

Please read and be advised:

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Facts about the 2011

Federal Tax Credit for Windows, Exterior Doors and Skylights

In the "Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Regulations and Job Creation Act" (H.R. 4853) signed into law December 17, 2010, Congress reduced the federal tax credit for energy efficient windows, doors and skylights for 2011 and changed the qualifying criteria.

Below is a summary of the new credit:

Qualifying Products:

All ENERGY STAR qualified windows, skylights and exterior doors are eligible.
Products must be installed in the consumer’s primary residence;
new construction is not eligible.

Credit Amount:
Consumers can claim a credit of 10% up to $200 of the purchase price of qualifying windows and skylights and 10% up to $500 for qualifying exterior doors. 
Installation costs are not included.

Lifetime Cap:
There is now a lifetime limit of $500 ($200 for windows/skylights) in total credits that a homeowner can claim from Jan. 1, 2006 to Dec. 31, 2010.  It is not on top of the $1,500 limit in 2009-2010.  So if they have already reached or exceeded the $500 limit, they are no longer eligible to claim the credit in 2011.  The $500 aggregate lifetime limit is for any combination of all tax credit qualifying products (HVAC, insulation, roofing, etc.), not just windows, doors and skylights.  If they have claimed less than $500, the can claim the difference up to the $200 cap for windows and skylights and $500 for exterior doors.

Duration: The revised tax credit is in effect for products installed in a consumer’s primary residence between January 1 and December 31, 2011.

Additional Information:The government is expected to post additional information at www.energystar.gov. The IRS is expected to post official guidance at www.irs.gov in early 2011. Circumstances very widely, so consumers should consult with their tax adviser for further guidance.

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Please be prepared!  As mentioned in their advisory, "consumers should consult with their tax adviser for further guidance."

Plan ahead.  We look forward to serving you soon.

Rod Pierce

Director of Operations

ABC Seamless - Toledo

5511 Telegraph Road

Toledo, Ohio 43612

(800) 589-4646 Toll Free

(419) 470-6200 Office

http://www.abcseamlesstoledo.com/

rodp@abc-siding.com

There is now a lifetime limit of $500 ($200 for windows/skylights) in total credits that a homeowner can claim from Jan. 1, 2006 to Dec. 31, 2011. It is not on top of the $1,500 limit in 2009-2010. So if they have already reached or exceeded the $500 limit, they are no longer eligible to claim the credit in 2011. The $500 aggregate lifetime limit is for any combination of all tax credit qualifying products (HVAC, insulation, roofing, etc.) not just windows, doors and skylights. If they claimed less than the $500, they can claim the difference up to $200 cap for windows and skylights and $500 for exterior doors.

Consumers can claim a credit of 10% up to $200 of the purchase price of qualifying windows and skylights and 10% up to $500 for qualifying exterior doors. Installation costs are not included.

Window Condensation (F.Y.I.)

Window Condensation

If the windows in your home constantly fog up or collect moisture, don’t be upset with your windows or "the company that sold us…" They’re sending you a message that may help save your home and your health!

What are my windows telling me?

Windows bring you more than sunshine and a view of the outdoors. They also can help you protect your home and your health. Your foggy windows may be trying to tell you to reduce indoor humidity before it causes hidden and costly problems elsewhere in your home: peeling paint, rotting wood, buckling floors, insulation deterioration, mildew, even moisture spots on ceilings and walls.
This information is provided to help you understand the relationship between windows and condensation, and how to tell when persistent high humidity and condensation may be increasing your risk for home and health problems.

Do windows cause condensation?

No! Windows do not cause condensation. However, windows ARE most often the first place where condensation can be seen. Why…. To perform this experiment, you’ll need a microwave, a microwave safe cup or Pyrex measuring cup and one cup of water.

• Fill one (1) cup of water in the microwave safe cup.
• Place cup within the microwave.
• Boil the water in the microwave for (3) three minutes.

Now closely pay attention to the following:

• Upon completion of the (3) minute period, as you open the microwave, there is condensation on the interior glass of the microwave door. This is on the INSIDE of the microwave…. NOT the outside.
• Why: Like a storm front, the inside temperature of the microwave, was HOT, the exterior of the microwave was room temperature. Hot meets cold….("Storm front") Condensation!

You see as the Microwave door seal makes the interior "AIR-TIGHT," the moisture created can not escape so, it attaches itself to the coolest spot of the interior, the glass (on the door). Key: Moisture is introduced to the interior environment.

Let’s perform another…
(This one may be familiar to you if you simply think about it….)

• Prepare your shower in the bathroom.
• A HOT shower. Close all doors, windows and DO NOT turn on the ceiling fan.
• Take a nice hot shower.
• Upon completion of the shower, there is steam/moisture on the mirror and (if there is a window) on the glass of the window.

You see the bathroom is (pretty closely) "AIR-TIGHT," the moisture created again, could not escape so, it attached itself to the coolest spot of the interior, the mirror or the window. Key: Moisture was introduced to the interior environment.
Now…. How do we remove it, we vent the room, open the door, or turn on the ceiling fan OR OPEN THE WINDOW. The window did not create the condensation, the moisture introduced did. There is one more thing… the temperature is warmer inside than out.

If windows created moisture or Condensation alone, we’d sell them in the desert and

MAKE A FORTUNE!

So….You’re probably not surprised or concerned when your bathroom mirror becomes fogged. You expect it after a hot shower. Your car windows fog up in humid weather (especially when the temperature drops suddenly) or in winter when you have several passengers. These are typical examples of condensation. It usually occurs in cold weather, but also can occur during humid months when air conditioning is running. Once again, the mirror doesn’t cause the condensation. The car windows don’t cause it either. These are just the first places you actually see condensation. Check your bathroom walls after a shower – you’ll see condensation there, too. Run your finger along the wall. You’ll see water on your finger, and you’ll see the trail of your finger through the condensation on the wall.
The same is true for the windows in your home.

What does cause condensation?

Condensation forms when warm, humid air contacts a cold surface. Moisture is in the air all around us. Warmer air can hold more moisture. As air cools, it contracts (just as people pull their arms and clothing tight around them when chilled) and its moisture condenses. When the temperature drops, the first place you will see any condensation is on your windows. Your windows are the coldest surface indoors. During colder months, indoor air is much warmer and holds more moisture than outdoor air, which is colder and dry. Warm, humid air cools and contracts as it contacts the cooler windows, and the moisture condenses on the glass.

Why is indoor air so humid?

Everyday living – Showers, baths, cooking (boiling water for pasta), washing dishes, doing laundry, and cleaning all add moisture to the air.. You may have many indoor plants, fish tanks, moisture in your basement, in your home, oddly, as much as four gallons or more per day in some homes. We even exhale moisture into the air as we breathe.
Home construction – Today’s energy-efficient, well-insulated homes help us hold down heating and cooling costs. But the same things that block outdoor air from entering our homes also keep moisture from venting to the outdoors.　

I wish I had a dime for every time I heard: "But my old windows never had condensation!"

That’s why you purchased new windows! You see, your old windows were drafty, not as energy efficient. With the application of NEW replacement windows, you have removed the old, cleaned out the window cavity, set the window securely in place, insulated around it, capped/deluxed the exterior, caulked/seald completely around the window and made your home an air-tight "Tupperware" container. Now, the moisture cannot escape. How do we get rid of it, we open a window/door, something. We vent!

Is condensation more likely in certain climates, types of homes or windows, or times of year?

Yes. It’s more likely to occur:

• In areas where January temperatures average 35ºF or less.
• In summer and fall, when homes pick up moisture from damp air. In fall, when the heating season begins and windows are closed, indoor air picks up the moisture. For the next week or two, temporary condensation is likely.
• Condensation can also form on the outside of your windows. This usually happens when it is hot and humid outside and is called "reverse condensation." When the air is cooler inside your home, it makes the surface of the glass cooler than the dew point. Plants around your window can increase the chance of having reverse condensation. You are also more likely to see it on clears nights when there is little or no wind.
• With sharp, quick drops in temperature, creating temporary condensation problems.
• For one year after construction or remodeling, while building materials dry out. Building materials hold a massive amount of moisture; condensation should be expected through the first heating season.
• On bay or bow windows, where air circulation is often restricted and windows tend to be a few degrees cooler since they project out from the insulated house wall.
• When drapes are closed and shades are pulled down. Today’s heavily insulated drapes and tighter shades restrict air flow over window glass and can contribute to condensation problems.

I have condensation on my double-glazed windows. How can I tell if it’s from bad seals or indoor humidity?

Before calling for repair service, try this easy test. Run your finger through the area where the condensation is formed. If your finger gets wet and leaves a trail through the condensation, it’s on the room side of the glass. That tells you that condensation is forming because of excessive indoor humidity.
If your finger remains dry and leaves no mark in the condensation, the moisture is collecting between the panes of glass. This tells you that you have "seal failure." The seal in that window has somehow been damaged and needs repair or replacement.

I’m convinced. How can we reduce indoor humidity?

1. Increase ventilation as a temporary solution to an acute problem, open a window in each room for just a few minutes, letting stale, humid air escape and fresh, dry air in. Your heat loss will be minimal.
2. Vent all gas burners, clothes dryers, etc., to the outdoors.
3. Install kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans to draw steam outdoors.
4. Keep attic vents open and clear
5. Install storm windows to keep interior glass warmer.

1. Control indoor moisture. Set your humidifier at the level recommended below for winter temperatures: Indoor humidity can be checked with a humidity monitor or regulated with a humidistat, available at most building supply stores and home centers.
2. If you’re an indoor plant lover, group them in one sunny room and avoid over watering.
3. Waterproof basement floors and walls. Run a dehumidifier if needed.
4. Insulate under the seat and head of bay and bow windows where condensation forms to keep window glass warmer. Run an electric fan near the window to help air circulation.

	Outside Temp	Indoor Relative Humidity
	-20*F	15-20%
	-10*F	15-20%
	0*F	20-25%
	+10*F	25-30%
	+20*F	30-35%

For more information:

You may email me directly at rodp@abc-siding.com

In the meantime, if your windows are over 20 years old, due to technology, chances are you need to replace them.
Enjoy your new replacement windows and watch the humidity levels in your home.

Rod Pierce
Director of Operations
ABC Seamless -- Toledo, Ohio

http://www.abc-siding.com/

Use protection! "Gutter Protection"

Hi Gang!

Here we are again as temperatures drop and the rain increases, we concern ourselves with the condition of our gutters. Naturally, we must also consider protecting ourselves from debris clogging the gutters, thereby voiding their purpose.

Answer one question, "What is the primary purpose of the gutters installed on my home?" You should answer along the lines of, "To catch rain water as it flows off my roof and push the water away from my home’s foundation." Think one word, erosion (the process by which the surface of the earth is worn away by the action of water). A National Handyman and Radio personality has an excellent phrase, which he reminds callers constantly, "Water always wins."

Prior to purchasing any kind of gutter protection for your home, you have several things to consider. Many things should be considered other than how nice the Salesman was or how good his presentation was.

• Are your gutters in good shape?
• It doesn’t make sense to pull down "new" or perfectly good gutters to install an "all-in-one" gutter & protection system. Nor does it make sense to install brand new protection over gutters that are falling off, leaking or in disrepair.

• What kinds of trees are on your property?

• The fact is, it’s not that the simple guards are useless but they may be the wrong style for your property and your specific needs. (Don’t forget that towering pine on your property….) If your home is out in the open, protection may not be first-and-foremost on your "things to do list." Beware however of the random tennis balls and/or dead birds that may still clog your gutters.

• Does my roof slope have much to do with the protection I choose?
• The slope of your roof is a HUGE consideration when you stop and think about it. The roof pitch can run from as low as a "flat roof" (which speaks for itself) up to as much as a 12/12 or greater! This is like the difference between the "bunny run" at your favorite ski resort vs. the downhill ramp on the Olympic ski jump; quite the difference. Think for a moment of how slow you ski on a bunny run yet the momentum alone rushes you off at a high rate of speed when going down hill on the jump.
• Many products rely on what they describe as "surface tension." Try this little experiment: Go to your kitchen sink, fill a coffee mug to the brim with water. Hold it level, you’ll see the water sits at the rim much like that on a roof with a flat surface. Now, tilt the mug very slightly (barely noticeable and watch how as the water runs off, it clings to the edge of the mug and drip inward toward the center of the bottom of the cup. This is surface tension (a.k.a.: water adhesion). Now, tilt your cup at a VERY steep pitch/slope, you can see that the water clearly runs off the mug and does not adhere to the edge at all. It in fact shoots away from the mug. This is why many of the products that rely solely on surface tension have a disclaimer in their warranty, "This product does not protect against water over flowing in the areas of where this gutter protection is installed." Once again, "What is the primary reason for the gutters on your home?" Hmmmmmmm…. This is certainly worthy of thought.

• What cover / guard or protection is best suited for my home?
• This is a question you and only you must answer. Do NOT let one system influence your decision. Do your homework. Check out several and then choose wisely. Another thought, what is (or is NOT) covered under warranty? Be certain to see the EXACT warranty that accompanies the gutter protection that interests you. Beware of one who says, "I have placed all your important documents in this sealed envelope including your warranty. Don’t open it, as items may fall out you’ll want or need someday. Put it in a special place (maybe where you keep all of your other important documents)." Picture this, you follow those instructions, 6 months later, you experience a problem, you look for your paperwork and:
• there’s no warranty.
• "This warranty is void unless the attached warranty card is completed and returned to the office within 30 days of installation.
• You are "SOL," on your own!

• Will the installer’s or manufacturer’s warranty cover necessary cleaning?
• Richard Roll, President of the American Homeowners Association said, Check the warranty, especially the fine print. (Why? …..because that’s where they’re gonna get you! By the fine print!).
• Beware of the protection that calls for a service fee to clean out your gutters. WAIT! Why are you buying their gutter protection?  To keep the gutters free of debris. Now they charge you for clean out (when it is their product that got clogged?) Seriously?

CURB APPEAL:

Is the gutter protection you’re considering appealing to the eye from the street or will it be an eyesore? Will you require a protection system that is available in a multitude of colors? This may impede your choices. Can you reach a "happy medium?" Color matching or performance, you must determine which is most important to you.

ICICILES or ICE DAMS:

Icicles also can be an inherent problem dependent upon these factors and the type cover/protection. When the temperature drops, and water droplets have somewhere to run off or stick to then freeze, one freezes on the other, and the other, next thing you know, icicles.

The weight of ice within the gutters, atop your gutters or even on the gutters in the form of icicles can cause additional damage to you gutters, fascia boards and more. It is for this reason I am a fan of a micromesh gutter protection rather than a "cover" or "hood."  This is a very touchy subject. I will not take time to explain the "ultimate" cause of Ice Dams on this page however, it comes down to your roofs ventilation, insulation and a few other factors, not to forget, if your gutters are full of debris and can not collect water, wham! Ice Dams!

ROOFING GRIT/ GRANULES:

Does any portion of the gutter protection you are installing require installation underneath the first row of shingles (or any portion thereof)? Be careful, many roofing/shingle manufacturers void their warranty when this form of application is required. Know before you go.  There is not a shingle made that in time does not loose its granules. So much so, one of the largest shingle manufaturers has even produced a flyer regarding The Life Cycle of Roofing Shigles. When this occurs due to the aging process of your roof, you can find granules within your gutters. Once again, I encourage the gutter protection with micromesh as these granules, even pine needles are not a concern.

VALLEYS

This is the area where two roofs meet; possibly between your garage and the main roof. In many cases, there is now a valley that leads to a "inside" corner. At the base, your gutter becomes the "catch all" from the debris that runs down the valley. Much like a slide in a playground. Many contractors place "splash guards" to prevent the water from overflowing in this corner section. Now, you have enhanced the flow of debris, water and other objects in this valley yet restricted the flow. Essentially you have built a damn. Be prepared to have constant maintenance required in that section. Simply use a broom or brush away the debris from this area.

ITEMS SITTING ATOP (POLLEN):

No mater what type gutter cover/protection you install, you essentially have now placed a "roof" over your gutters. You will experience debris sitting atop your gutter protection. Most times, the items sitting atop will blow away with the wind. On the other hand, in many areas across the nation there are trees that produce pollen. Then the pollen sits atop you gutter protection. Yes, this can also happen with the micromesh protection. Simply use mild dish-soap and a gentle scrub brush and this pollen will wash away instantly.

Ultimately remember this: Even the best gutter protection in the world will not operate properly if it is installed poorly. You may have created a problem rather than a solution.

Finally, stay off the ladder! Leave that to the experts. Over 750,000 cases of ladder falls are reported annually of persons between the ages of 20-40 years old. Some simple injuries, others death. Protect you home, possessions and potentially your lives. Use protection!

http://www.abc-siding.com/

Rod Pierce
Director of Operations
ABC Seamless
Toledo, Ohio

The Best Insulation

You'd like to $ave money on your energy bills wouldn't you?  The Department of Energy and the Energy Star program says R-49 insulation is the best.  According to nearly every study done, most of the energy lost from your home starts at the top, your attic. 

Many municipalities across the country have "approved" building codes that fall short of the suggested R-value for your home.  A materials resitance to heat flow is Resistance-value or better known as R-value.  The higher the R-value of attic insulation the slower the flow of heat loss through your ceiling.

The Department of Energy's recommened R-value in an attic space in Northwest Ohio and Michigan is R-49 for homes with gas, oil or fuel burning furnaces.  On the contrary, should your home be heated by an electric furnace, the recommended R-value increases to R-60.  Too often, I hear consumers specifically stating, "My builder (or contractor), friend said the code is R-30."  This may be up to "code" but it is not what is recommended.  The D.O.E. has scientific research behind them, local "code" does not.

I favor a quote once found in an article of the Detroit Free News:  "Your customers deserve the insulation they need, not the minimum you can get by with." The moment you insulate your attic you will see an immediate improvement in your utility costs.  A former colleague of mine, David Gaines shared an excellent thought, "Stop and ask yourself one question, If insulating your home didn't save you money, why would you do it?"

Remember, tax credits are now available and must be "placed in service" before December 31st, 2010.  For insulation to qualify for the tax credit of 30% of cost, up to $1,500, it's primary purpose must be to insulate.  Siding does not qualify and it must be expected to last 5 years OR have a 2 year warranty.

So insulate now and see immediate savings.  DO NOT WAIT to the last minute as (supply and demand) quality installers and companies are booking up quickly.  Your payback should be approximately 2.4 years. "Get it while the gettin's good!"

http://www.insulationtoledo.com/

Rod Pierce
Director of Operations
ABC Seamless
Toledo, Ohio 43612
rodp@abc-siding.com